Livon Friulano 2014 Collio, Friuli, Italy

 

Livon Friulano 2014.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine 

Taking a glance at the almost watery, pale, lemon color of this wine you wouldn’t necessarily expect the abundance of aromas that meets the nose. Elegant and fresh floral notes are followed by clear pear and citrus aromas only to be complemented by sage-like herbal notes and, so typical of Friulano, a magnificent almondy softness. Although this wine has only received stainless steel treatment, its buttery character, most probably due to Friulano as a varietal (and not malolactic fermentation), gives more complexity to the aroma profile than expected for such a young and fresh wine.

What about the palate, then? For such a pale colored and fresh wine, there is substantial body to it. Almost approaching full body, the structure is well balanced with high acidity, plenty of fruit and well-integrated, medium alcohol. The mouth-filling weight carries the almond aroma typical of this variety at its core, while the fresh floral, pear and citrus notes create a paradoxically light impression. Exiting with a delightfully long and bitter almond-peel aftertaste, this very Friulian wine leaves a pleasant impression.

A well-balanced, aromatically somewhat complex, yet refreshing and young wine. Thanks to its high acidity and plentiful fruit pairs beautifully with fish and prosciutto – and plenty of dishes – especially Nothern European Christmas fish dishes and even the Christmas ham. Recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 16.98 Alko wine and spirits shop, Finland

USD 9.55 webshop Bernabei.com

GBP 6.39 webshop Bernabei.co.uk

Country and region: Italy, Friuli, Collio

Grapes: 70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Alc vol: 12,5%

Producer: Livon

Finnish wine bloggers unite - the mystery bottle challenge

It is a mystery!

Thanks to Vindirekt, a Finnish wine importer, each of us wine bloggers received a mystery wine bottle for blind tasting challenge. We all agreed to post the blog article on this mystery wine at the same time - on 8th of December at 23.59 GMT +2. This way none of our opinions would have an impact on the other bloggers, and objectivity of the reviews and tasting notes would be retained.

Even though the bottle labels had already been removed, the importer kindly advised us to use an assistant for uncorking of the bottle, so that the cork wouldn’t give away any information regarding the wine’s identity. In a few days from posting the mystery wine reviews we will be informed of the identity of the wine, and we will post it on our blogs. What an intriguing challenge... Challenge accepted!

Blind tasting isn’t easy - getting the identity of a wine right requires a vast amount of tasting experience, and still, it might go sideways. Personally, I find wine’s aromas to be the most fascinating aspect in the world of wine - learning to identify aromas while tasting, understanding how they are created in the wine making process, and understanding the aromas as a reflection of the climate and the terroir are all at the core of my passion. Since this time I’m not able to illuminate the background of this wine (as I know nothing about it), instead I’ll write the aromatic and structural observations I make as thoroughly as possible and this way do my best to communicate the logic behind my conclusions. It might all go horribly wrong, and then I’ll learn from it! So, dear readers, you are most welcome to join this blind tasting bungee jump to follow.

Notes of the blind tasting.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

There is a blue tint to the deep, ruby red colour of this wine. However, there is still enough red to call it ruby red, not quite purple. This colour already steers my thoughts essentially away from Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, towards varieties with thick skins giving plenty of colour and extracts. Also, the blue tone points towards a somewhat young wine.

Aromatically, the nose of medium plus intensity is fruit driven with plenty of dark ripe fruit.  Black cherries, plums, blackcurrant juice and blackberry are accompanied by plenty of oak influence and sweet vanilla spice. Also, there are clear liquorice notes and an evident presence of black pepper followed by slight herbal elements. Leathery and sweaty animal notes add complexity to this wine, but they are rather restrained in intensity.

Based on the nose only, I’d say this wine is developing. Due to the ripe, fruit driven nature, bold use of oak and sweet nature of oak spices (American oak?), I tend to place this wine in the New World. In all honesty, I make a small round trip of Southern France in my mind for exclusion, but in the end I conclude that this oak usage doesn’t point towards France.

The peppery spice is a characteristic of a few black international varieties with high concentration of rontundone compound. Grenache is one of them, however, it tends to give red fruit flavours and a more white pepper nuanced spiciness to the wine. Shiraz, on the other hand, is well known for its black pepper character. Cabernet Sauvignon typically displays black currant notes, as is the case with this mystery wine, but other CS typical characteristics such as high acidity, astringency of tannin and herbal notes of mint and eucalyptus are lacking. However, it might be that there is some CS present as a blending component in this wine.

Structurally, this wine is rather soft, round and mouth filling on the palate, with medium acidity and plenty (medium plus to high) of alcohol. Tannin quality of this wine is ripe. Hence, it is challenging to evaluate whether there is a high or only medium plus amount of very fine grained, soft tannin present. In the end, I decide to settle for medium plus tannin as the drying in the mouth is only medium after spitting, and the body of the wine only approaches full body. The peppery character of the wine is a slight confounding factor, as it is difficult to evaluate what proportion of the tickle and burning sensation in the finish is due to rotundone and what part of it is due to high alcohol. Nevertheless, the plentiful alcohol feels well integrated on the palate. Overall, this wine is in good balance due to its abundant fruit and sturdy enough acid structure. Flavourwise, the palate is very fruity, dominated by black fruit, sweet oak spice, leather and black pepper. The finish is peppery and fruity with blackberry notes, and these pleasant aromas linger for at least a good medium length while.

From this tasting process, I’m inclined to draw the following conclusions:

1. New World (bold use of oak, sweet vanilla, fruit driven, concentrated, ripe fruit, even some stewed fruit character)

2. Not necessarily the hottest of New World Climates. The style is rather black peppery, there are even herbs, the fruit isn’t completely cooked or jammy. Cooler parts of Australia? Chile’s Casablanca or San Antonio? New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay?

3. Animalistic and earthy elements. Certain areas, such as Barossa in Australia, are well known of their Brett influenced, sweaty, high quality Shiraz wines. But is this animal/leather/sweat influence in this wine too restrained for Barossa Shiraz?

4. Shiraz. Dark fruit, black pepper, liquorice and leather. Almost full body, high alcohol. I’m going for Shiraz. It might be that there is some CS in this wine (currant), but the black fruit might be also due to Shiraz solely.

Conclusion

Because I have to say something, I say: Shiraz from Chile 2013. However, I leave an option open for cooler climate South Australian or Victoria Shiraz wines.

This wine is well made and is of high quality, although the finish could be longer. It can drink now, but I’d say it has aging potential.

Now all we can do is sit tight and wait for the exciting truth! I’ll be back soon with the identity of the wine. Tremolo!

For Finnish speaking wine lovers, you can find the reviews of the mystery wine also on the following wine blogs:
Rypäleistä viis
Copatinto
Viiniministeri

Loppasuut

Viinihullun päiväkirja

Viinikartta

Pullonhenki

Blanc de Blancs

Wineserver

Veni Vidi Viini

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir 2012 Martinborough, New Zealand

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir 2012

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Typically pale, ruby red colour of Pinot Noir is followed by an elegant nose. Scents of sour, ripe, red fruit such as cranberries and red cherries are surrounded by floral, mostly rose resembling aromas. Further, a more developed layer of aromas emerges – notes of fallen autumn leaves, forest floor and minerality bring finesse to this wine. The all over elegance of the aroma profile communicates the adequately cool growing environment necessary for Pinot Noir.

On the palate the structure is medium bodied and concentrated. The refreshingly high acidity lifts the acid structure, while the tannins remain pinotnoirishly low. This level of acidity is definitely necessary to reach balance with the abundant fruit and the relatively high - yet beautifully integrated -  alcohol. Aromatically, the floral notes, red cherries and minerality come to the foreground on the palate. The medium plus length aftertaste of cherries, savoury minerality, and a hint of oak leaves behind an overall pleasant impression.

An aromatically elegant, very well balanced new world Pinot Noir to the festive season. Whether you choice is turkey or ham (as is traditional in Finland at Christmas dinner), this affordable, and still elegant, fruity and acidic red with light tannin will make an excellent pairing. Recommended.

Info in a nutshell

EUR 19.99 Alko wine and spirit shop, Finland

GBP 17.71 matthewclark.co.uk

AUD 33.99 danmurphys.com.au

Country and region: New Zealand, Martinborough

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir

Alc vol: 14%

Producer: Te Kairanga Wines

Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos 2012 Bierzo, Spain

Pétalos 2012.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Every now and then I get inspired by a wine article. This time it was Matt Kramer’s story about fantastic grape varietals that might have sneaked under the wine lovers’ radar. His description of the Spanish variety Mencia as ”broad-shouldered Pinot Noir” got me galloping towards the wine shop, and I’m grateful it did. Otherwise I could have overlooked this marvellous wine discovery.

As a reminder of its youth, this wine has a purple tint to its deep ruby hue. Pétalos (Eng. petals), faithful to its name, immediately exhibits a garden of flowers on the nose including roses, violets and even lilies. Dark fruit - cherries, both fresh and dried, and blackcurrants - follow the floral aromas. Strikingly, for a wine this age, there are further layers of developed earthy and autumnal herbaceous tones like fallen leaves and slate minerality. Astonishing complexity!

The layers of aromas of the nose continue on the palate. Cherries, herbs and minerality are evident. However, fruitiness shows restraint, which results in a fine balance with medium acidity and ripe, fine grained tannins of moderate quantity. Although there is a substantial amount of alcohol, the mouthfeel is elegantly medium-bodied and very dry. Paradoxally, this voluminous and mouth-filling wine leaves a featherlight impression. The dry finish with cherry and blackcurrant is long.

To fully appreciate this complex, medium-bodied wine, I would pair it with aromatic Spanish tapas, flavourful risotto or pasta. Charcuterie and hard cheeses would work as well. Avoiding chilli is a good idea since this otherwise airy and elegant wine has a high alcohol content.

A balanced, elegant and complex wine of great value. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 12,35  webshop santacecilia.es

USD 16,96 webshop canalswine.com

GBP 18,95 wine shop Majesticwine, UK

DKK 140 (EUR 18) wine shop Vin Specialisten, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: Bierzo, Spain

Grape: Mencia 100%?

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Descendientes de J. Palacios

Background

Bierzo has had a reputation of producing simple, fruity red wines. Known mainly by locals it remained in the back seat of wine producing Spain until 1990’s. At that time, Alvario Palacios and Ricardo Perez Palacios entered into the picture bringing change. Descendientes de J. Palacios commenced to produce characterful Mencia wines from old vines using biodynamic and organic farming and vinification methods. They decided to make single vineyard wines from vines growing on steep slopes, while the common fruity and light Bierzo were products of vineyards located low in the valleys. Currently, Descendientes de J. Palacios owns around 200 little vineyards located high on slate slopes where only manual tending to the vines is possible. As their Mencia wines in general, Pétalos has had several excellent vintages in a row. Amongst them, 2012 might be one of the most impressive.

P-U-R Beaujolais-Villages 2013, Beaujolais, France

P-U-R Beujolais-Villages 2013.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Should you be bored with Beaujolais candy-potions, this wine presents you with an opportunity to taste a different style of Beaujolais. 

True to the nature of Gamay variety, this wine is pale, clear, ruby in colour. However, the nose is a different story. From a Beaujolais, I would ordinarily expect some fresh banana and candy-like strawberry aromas due to carbonic maceration but these are non-existent. The surprisingly multifaceted, medium intensity aroma profile is first accentuated by flowers followed by red fresh berries and finally some farmyard funk. Violets, red cherries, raspberries and cranberries form a fresh scenery that is elegantly intertwined with a backdrop of subtle animalistic depth.

On the palate, high acidity and abundant fruit depict the first strike. Very fine grained, light tannins and crisp acidity generate a light and etherial mouthfeel. Although Gamay usually gives low-tannin wines, in this case these light tannins are clearly perceptible. In tandem with vivid acidity, they enjoyably balance the complex red fruit and animalistic aromas of the mid-palate. Finishing with a medium length cranberry aftertaste, this wine leaves a pleasant impression.

Vibrant, fruity and fresh, this Beaujolais is best enjoyed now or during the next few years. Its light, acidic nature invites vegetable based dishes like grilled zucchini. Fish and light meat dishes could also be paired successfully with this light, acidic, floral red wine.

A graceful example of Beaujolais-Villages natural wine. 

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

USD 14 at Brooklynwineexchange.com

EUR 7.50 per glass and 47.50 per bottle at Gastropub Tuulensuu, Tampere, Finland

Country and region: France, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages

Grape: Gamay 100%

Alc vol: 10,5%

Producer: Product Unique Rebelle, P-U-R

Background

P-U-R (Product Unique Rebelle) is a negociant owning a few hectares of vineyards and buying the rest of their grapes from organic farmers. Adhering to strictly natural winemaking style for P-U-R doesn’t mean taking risks in terms of wine faults. High quality is not a laughing matter to P-U-R, although they sure like to make rebellious fun of wine world phenomena. P-U-R’s Finnish importer told me that a while ago P-U-R aptly placed a banana smelling sticker on their Beaujolais wine’s label as a comment on the direction taken by aromatic development of wines in the area. In my opinion, an aromatically versatile, interesting and pleasant wine like P-U-R Beaujolais-Villages is a statement on the subject in itself.

Charles Smith Boom Boom! Syrah 2013 Washington State, USA

Charles Smith Boom Boom! Syrah 2013.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

This Syrah rocks! It starts with a deep, clear, ruby red colour and clean, pronounced dark berry-herbal first nose. I’m immediately on board. A slight swirl is enough to open a range of aromas. There is plenty of dark and red fruit: blueberry, blackberry, cherry and plum. Some soft vanilla and an abundance of herbs and blackcurrant leaf aromas follow. Finally, depth and edge are brought to this interesting wine by black pepper, animalistic nuances, leather and a slight hint of balsamic.

Pleasantly soft and full-bodied first strike turns into a mid-palate of dark berry and fruit aromas. Plummy fruitiness is well balanced by medium acidity and medium tannins. An impressive after taste lingers for a long while leaving a floral-herbal impression.

For a wine of this caliber, it would be an understatement to call it an ”easy drinking” wine. However, this wine has fruitiness and roundness to suit those who enjoy softer wines, as well as aromatic complexity and acid structure to give more demanding wine lovers plenty to explore. Ready to drink now, Boom Boom! would make a perfect pair with a broad range of barbecue dishes. Especially lamb would be beautifully complemented with its herbal aromas.

Expressive, relaxed, while still surprisingly complex already at young age, this Syrah is definitely a rock star. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 149 (EUR 20e) Smalle Vine wine shop, Copenhagen, Denmark

DKK 100 (EUR 13,50) per glass at wine bar Falernum, Copenhagen, Denmark

USD 13,98 at Wineworksonline.com

EUR 19,90 Viinitkotiin.com (in Finnish)

Country and region: USA, Washington State

Grape: 97% Syrah ja 3% Viognier

Alc vol: 13,5%

Producer: Charles Smith Wines

Charles Smith himself. (Image courtesy of Charles Smith Wines.)

Background

No wonder this wine has star quality. The man behind Boom Boom! Syrah is a California born, Scandinavia marinated rock band manager who became a star winemaker in Washington. Charles Smith was awarded ”Winemaker of the Year” by Wine Enthusiast in 2014 and Food & Wine in 2009, now being the only person to have won both awards.

It all started when Charles Smith was on a road trip and met a French wine maker who also loved Syrah. Consequently, Smith built an impressive sequence of wine businesses, and today is an owner and winemaker of  K Vintners, Charles Smith Wines, ViNO, Secco Italian Bubbles, SIXTO, Wines of Substance and one-half of Charles & Charles.

Charles Smith Wines produces wines to modern people, who want to enjoy their wine immediately instead of long storage time. The Modernist Project aims at doing this hand in hand with wines being expressive of their grape variety and terroir. In my glass, the project absolutely proved its point.

Borgogno No Name 2011, Piemonte, Italy

Borgogno No Name 2011.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

Very good wine

As typical of Nebbiolo, the colour of this wine has started to turn lighter already. Now the clear ruby colour has medium intensity with a transparent rim. Expressiveness of this wine is evident on the medium intensity nose - there is an abundance of roses, liquorice and red cherries. After a while layers of smokiness and leather appear. 

On the palate, the first strike is dominated by astringent tannin. However, plentiful fruit and acidity balance the tannins to a great extent. The aromas on the nose cand be tasted – especially the roses, cherries and liquorice reoccur in the mid palate. A long and pleasant after taste is full of cherries. The tannins leave dryness in the mouth. On the whole, this is an interesting, very high quality wine, that is quite well in balance still drifting slightly to the tannic side.

Being admittedly a great friend of Barolos and other pronouncedly tannic wines, I have to say that this Nebbiolo of 2011 is still very young at this stage. To be fully appreciated it would definitely benefit from some more years of bottle age. Possessing the fruitiness, complex aromas and acid structure required for successful aging – why not?

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 23,90  per bottle at Weinseller.de webshop

DKK 125 (EUR 15) per glass at wine bar Falernum, Copenhagen, Denmark

CAD 36,50 per bottle at SAQ outlets in Canada

Country and region: Italia, Piemonte

Grape: Nebbiolo 100%

Alc vol: 15%

Producer: Borgogno

Background

Borgogno winery stands in the middle of Barolo in Piemonte. They have produced wine since 1761, and nowadays make appreciated Barolo DOCG classified wines. Borgogno harvests No Name’s Nebbiolo grapes from vineyards of Cannubi, Liste and Fossatti that lie in Barolo’s Barolo and La Morra. How come it is called ”No Name” and has no Barolo DOCG stamped on the label? The story I was told was originally heard from the Danish importer and goes along these lines. Borgogno’s owner had these small patches of vineyard growing Nebbiolo grapes that were only used to make wine for their family and the villagers. They realised, however, that these grapes made even better ”barolo” than those used to make DOCG Barolo. Yet, getting the classification proved to be a challenge (I was not informed of the details, so don’t ask). As a quiet protest, Borgogno decided to give up altogether and call this wine ”No Name”. It receives reviews of 90 points and beyond vintage after vintage. Not surprisingly, Borgogno also produces wines called ”Maybe”, ”Le Theorie” (vino da meditazione - wine for meditation) and ”Resistenza”.

Andréa Calek Chatons de Garde 2012, Ardeche, France

Chatons de Garde 2012.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

The colour is clear, medium ruby with a slight tint of purple. Tearing in the glass hints towards high alcohol content. The nose is aromatically multifaceted with pronounced intensity. There are autumnal ripe dark berries and fruits: cherries and cassis, as well as fresh and dried plums. Animalistic aroma components of delicate sweat and leather are also present. Fallen leaves and black pepper complete the bouquet. An image of Rhone vineyard landscape glowing in the gold of autumn sun forms in my mind.

On the palate the first strike is full bodied, fruity, and round. However, the mid palate reveals high acidity, high alcohol and great deal of tannin. The bold acid structure is well in balance with the fruitiness. Tannins are mouth filling and velvety. They can be felt on the tip and the sides of the tongue the most. The aromas on the palate follow the impressions of the nose. The fruity after taste is long and pleasant.

This wine would be beautifully complemented by an aromatic game stew. However, it would work just fine with a good steak and dark sauce, or mixed grill and vegetables.

A well integrated, balanced wine. I warmly recommend.  

Info in a nutshell

Price examples: 

USD 26.99 per bottle at Union Square Wines

EUR 49.50 per bottle at GastropubTuulensuu, Tampere, Finland

Country and region: France, Ardèche, Alba la Romaine

Grape: Syrah 100%

Producer: Andréa Calek

Background

Andrea Calek was born in former Czechoslovakia and currently lives and works as a winemaker in Ardéche, France. You could call him a bit of a bohemian of the  wine making world, I guess, since he makes wine with a hard core natural wine philosophy and lives in a trailer close to his five hectare vineyards.

He came to France in the end of the 80’s, making his way from behind the iron curtain, which proved to be a challenge. The story involves a military service in Czechoslovakia, an especially lucky opportunity to make a trip to France, falling for France, a doctor’s certificate as an attempt to get discharged from the army, which didn’t work, a return to Czechoslovakia and military service, and finally finding love in France, which gave Calek finally an opportunity to return. As a delightful result of his all this, we now have a chance to enjoy the fruits of his painstaking natural wine production.   

Calek aims at tending to the vineyards and vinifying the wines so that the outcome would be a seamlessly expressive reflection of the grape variety and the terroir. Everything that might be considered manipulating the wine is avoided. Hence, no new oak, no commercial yeasts – you get the picture. Having tasted Chatons de Garde (eng. Kittens patrolling), (and having ordered a second glass right away), I have to say that Syrah is downright glowing in this wine. Calek’s products speak for themselves.