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| Borgogno No Name 2011. |
Wine review
4 of 5 stars
Very good wine
As typical of Nebbiolo, the colour of this wine has started
to turn lighter already. Now the clear ruby colour has medium intensity with a
transparent rim. Expressiveness of this wine is evident on the medium intensity nose - there is an abundance of roses, liquorice and red cherries.
After a while layers of smokiness and leather appear.
On the palate, the first strike is dominated by astringent
tannin. However, plentiful fruit and acidity balance the tannins to a great
extent. The aromas on the nose cand be tasted – especially the roses, cherries
and liquorice reoccur in the mid palate. A long and pleasant after taste is full of cherries. The
tannins leave dryness in the mouth. On the whole, this is an interesting, very
high quality wine, that is quite well in balance still drifting slightly to the
tannic side.
Being admittedly a great friend of Barolos and other
pronouncedly tannic wines, I have to say that this Nebbiolo of 2011 is still very young at this stage. To be fully appreciated it would definitely benefit
from some more years of bottle age. Possessing the fruitiness, complex aromas
and acid structure required for successful aging – why not?
Info in a nutshell
Price examples:
EUR 23,90 per bottle
at Weinseller.de webshop
DKK 125 (EUR 15) per glass at wine bar Falernum, Copenhagen,
Denmark
CAD 36,50 per bottle at SAQ outlets in Canada
Country and region: Italia, Piemonte
Grape: Nebbiolo 100%
Alc vol: 15%
Producer: Borgogno
Background
Borgogno winery stands in the
middle of Barolo in Piemonte. They have produced wine since 1761, and nowadays make appreciated
Barolo DOCG classified wines. Borgogno harvests No Name’s Nebbiolo grapes from vineyards
of Cannubi, Liste and Fossatti that lie in Barolo’s Barolo and La Morra. How
come it is called ”No Name” and has no Barolo DOCG stamped on the label?
The story I was told was originally heard from the Danish importer and goes along
these lines. Borgogno’s owner had these small patches of vineyard growing Nebbiolo
grapes that were only used to make wine for their family and the villagers. They
realised, however, that these grapes made even better ”barolo” than those used to make DOCG Barolo. Yet, getting the classification proved to be a
challenge (I was not informed of the details, so don’t ask). As a quiet
protest, Borgogno decided to give up altogether and call this wine
”No Name”. It receives reviews of 90 points and beyond vintage after vintage. Not
surprisingly, Borgogno also produces wines called ”Maybe”, ”Le Theorie” (vino
da meditazione - wine for meditation) and ”Resistenza”.
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