Folonari Cabreo Il Borgo 2011 Toscana IGT, Italy

Cabreo Il Borgo 2011.

 

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

With the best blended supertuscans you get the best of the both worlds - in this case the crispy elegance of Sangiovese and the concentrated dark fruit roundness of Cabernet Sauvignon. This particular wine really stopped me with its complete character. Impressively elegant acid structure meets mouth filling body and nuanced, developed aromatics.

One might argue that the “Wine of the Year” sticker next to the label biased my tasting note. However, being aware of the vast amount of awards on offer in competitions, I just tend to be, if possible, even more critical towards a wine should it have a medal sticker attached to it. Nevertheless, Cabreo Il Borgo is THE wine I recommend for pairing with red meat, especially game, during the festive season. Also, it works wonders with hard cheeses - or just by itself while enjoying the Christmas mood.

The clear, ruby red colour of medium intensity is followed by developed, elegant aromatics: ripe red and fresh black fruit, such as sour cherries, dark cherries and plum form the restrained and elegant fruit core that is surrounded by pungent spice and herbal oils, especially anise and liquorice, but also a hint of vanilla and, more clearly, smoke and toast notes.

Surprisingly, Cabreo Il Borgo’s palate is even more intense than the nose. Concentrated, fruity and full-bodied, this wine boasts with an abundance of dark fruit, especially dark cherry aromas. The concentrated fruit is well balanced with high and well-integrated alcohol, medium plus acidity and plentiful yet round and velvety tannin. What was more restrained on the nose is now pronounced, and the development of the aromas even more detectable: leather, cigar box and a note of black olive accompany the liquorice and smoke. I find this wine intriguing. The aromas are developed and challenging, and still, the fruit core of the flavours potentially makes it everyone’s favourite. As a stamp of excellent quality, the finish is long and immensely pleasant combination of cherry, liquorice and smoke.

An excellently balanced, aromatically nuanced wine. It can well drink now, but has a great structure for further aging. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 23 webshop SoundTaste (ships within EU)

EUR 36.90 Alko wine and spirits shop, Finland

USD 29.99 webshop Wally Wine

Country and region: Italy, Tuscany

Grapes: 70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Folonari

Stroppolatini Pignolo 2009, 2010 and 2011 Friuli, Italy

Stroppolatini's court yard reflects Italian sense of beauty.

Stroppolatini produces 100% Pignolo

While Pignolo is the most glorious of Friulian local black grapes, it is also the toughest one to handle. It produces very low yields (only 50% of the yields of Merlot), is messy to work with due to its staining pigments, and demands extensive maturation to show its potential. It is no surprise that producers tend to be slightly apprehensive about planting Pignolo, and it is not widely produced in its home area. On top of that, drinking and selling young wines have always dominated the Friulian wine culture. Hence, Pignolo has been either drank too young, while astringent and still hiding its aromatic potential, or it has been ”cut” with other grapes to soften it, but also loosing its varietal beauty in the process.

Fortunately, there are exceptions to these rules: Stroppolatini produces 100% Pignolo. At the moment they sell out the 2010 vintage, and still, Federico Stroppolatini considers the wine to be very young - it is only starting to show its potential.  We were privileged to be able to vertically taste three consecutive vintages of Stroppolatini Pignolo, and to experience in practise the evolution of this exceptional wine.

 

Stroppolatini Pignolo 2011

This wine being still in the process of maturation, Federico kindly offers us tasting samples straight from the barrel. The intensely deep ruby red colour and the finesse of the aromatics on the nose immediately communicate how very big this wine is. The aromas are different from anything I have smelled before: there are wild forest berries, mostly red berries such as wild raspberries and cranberries, and an elegant and very feminine perfume aroma. This aroma of face powder or talcum powder is extraordinary, and in my experience completely unique to Pignolo. The red berry and powdery nuances are supported by deeper red, almost black fruit character of plums, and black pepper spice.

What about the palate then? Well, as expected, this young Pignolo wine is definitely aggressive on the palate. Drying and mouth pinching tannin combined with bold acidity promises aging potential for years and decades to come. Also the concentrated fruit and well-integrated alcohol promise a glorious future for this wine. However, drinking it now would be utter waste of a beautiful product, because its structure is only starting to develop and its flavour potential is still mostly hidden. Nevertheless, this young wine has an intense and long finish that lingers for minutes.

Stroppolatini Pignolo 2010.

Stroppolatini Pignolo 2010

Although vintage 2010 can drink now, Federico thinks it would benefit from many more years of aging to show its best qualities. I absolutely agree. Compared to the 2011 vintage, this wine shows more raspberry fruit as well as more development. Tertiary aromas of cedar and tobacco are intertwined with the delightful powdery, floral pignoloish perfume. What a bouquet! While the tannin still dominates on the palate, there is now more roundness to its quality. But make no mistake; there is still definite muscle and aggression to the structure! And the finish, oh, the finish. A complex aromatic sequence keeps opening up for ages. 

Stroppolatini Pignolo 2009.

Stroppolatini Pignolo 2009

This wine is where the potential of this grape is truly revealed. It is an outstanding wine. The intense colour is now already turning towards garnet, and the nose has more fruity, raspberry intensity, nevertheless remaining still very floral, powdery and elegantly feminine. Federico brings up the peculiar way Pignolo typically ages: while wines usually become less and less fruity with age, Pignolo appears to reveal its fruit more and more! Somehow its berry aromas are liberated while the tannin becomes softer. 

This is absolutely true. I find 2009 vintage to be even more abundant in raspberry and cranberry flavours compared to the previous wines. Notably, the palate is now showing a beautiful balance. The plentiful tannin has become integrated and remarkably rounder, only slightly pinching the tongue. I can only imagine where this wine would go in ten years of time: it would probably become powdered raspberry velvet supported by a cascade of developed aromas. Already now, the aftertaste is exceptional. I greatly enjoy the paradox this wine offers: on one hand it is feminine and elegant in its flavours, on the other hand it is shamelessly powerful and tannic. Pignolo is an iron princess!

La Viarte Pignolo Riserva 2005 Friuli, Italy

La Viarte Pignolo Riserva 2005.

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

Dear vinous friends, this wine is truly divine.  La Viarte Pignolo Riserva 2005 is a spectacular example of what can be achieved when this Friulian grape is grown and vinified respecting its varietal potential. La Viarte is an important premium wine producer in the village of Prepotto, in Colli Orientali del Friuli. Their methods of vineyard care are ecologically aware, aiming at respecting the vines and the delicate balance of the nature. Although, at this point, I’m well acquainted with what can be accomplished with Pignolo, tasting this wine makes me still go weak at the knees.

Intense and deep in its ruby red colour, this wine boasts an elegant version of the aromatics so typical of Pignolo. At first, the pronounced nose offers a soft, floral perfume of powder immediately followed by cranberry-like red forest fruit. Deepness of ripe cherries and plum aromas forms a background to the freshness of the forest fruit. The more developed aromatic layers present spiciness, coffee and leather. Further, the aromas of oak are very subtle and well integrated considering this wine has been matured in barriques for 24 months. What I find so special about Pignolo is the alluring combination of the very feminine nuance of floral perfume of powder and the wildness of the forest fruit. This wine is a particularly fine example of this varietal aromatic uniqueness.

When it comes to acid structure, Pignolo possesses a huge aging potential as well as an aging requirement due to its abundant tight tannin in youth. To become agreeable and show the grape’s potential, it requires at least around ten years to soften and integrate its tannins. La Viarte’s Pignolo, at the time point of 10 years from the vintage, has a surprisingly velvety yet firm, full-bodied mouth feel, and is very well balanced, developed and complex. Still, it remains very fresh fruit-wise. The plentiful fruit and structural components balance the relatively high alcohol very well. Pignolo’s signature, the structural backbone of tannin, creates paradoxical elegance in the mouth as it provides the otherwise full-bodied wine with a good posture and narrows it on the tongue. Aromatically, the forest fruit lead the way, as the black peppery spiciness and coffee linger in the background. Finishing with a pleasantly fruitful and fresh aftertaste that remains, this wine leaves a lasting impression.

Well balanced, aromatically complex, a particularly fine example of Pignolo. Warmly recommended.

Although I tend to concentrate on wine bar recommendations, I can’t write about this wine with good consciousness without giving you, dear readers, a vinous restaurant tip. I ran into La Viarte Pignolo in Trattoria Al Giardinetto, in Cormons. Proving to be a true wine lover’s paradise, Al Giardinetto presented us with an impressive wine list and outstanding food as well as lovely and professional service in all regards. You can find this restaurant in Michelin guide Italy, and although it doesn’t have a star, its place in the guide is well justified.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 68 webshop friuliwineandfood.it (request shipment possibilities via email)

GBP 49.20 webshop whisperwines.com (ships only to UK)

NZD 194.99 webshop villagewinery.co.nz

Country and region: Italy, Friuli Venezia-Giulia, Colli Orientali, Prepotto

Grapes: 100% Pignolo

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: La Viarte

Bressan Merlot 2003, Venezia Giulia IGT, Italia

Bressan Merlot 2003.

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

Here we have an outstanding wine. A clear ruby colour is followed by an extraordinary bouquet. First there are raspberries, cranberries, blueberries and blackberries and floral aromas of violets. The second impression brings in developed aromas of sweet spices, cedar wood and amber. Finally, there is oriental perfume that reminds me of The Book of the Thousand Nights and a Night. The entirety on this pronounced nose is etherial, even mystical as the layers of aromas open one after another.

When tasting, the story of the striking bouquet continues as its aromas are repeated seamlessly on the palate. I'm astonished by the etherial mouthfeel that echoes the bouquet as the wine glides on the palate. There is feeling of fluttering silk. The medium body is well balanced with high acidity and developed, round and plentiful tannins. A very pleasant cranberry after taste lingers for a long while. 

This wine, in my opinion, ought to be meditated. I wouldn't necessarily combine it with food due to its delicate aromatic complexity that would easily be overpowered by food. However, if you want to drink this wine over dinner, I would suggest high quality roast beef with vegetable pure. Due to its high acidity, this wine could also be combined with acidic dishes without becoming flat, e.g. Italian tomato based recipes.

Complex, integrated and elegant. A truly divine wine.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 28,50 at Enoteca Ronchi webshop

DKK 235 (EUR 31) per bottle at Vinbar Terroiristen, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: Italia, Venezia Giulia IGT, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Isonzo

Grape: Merlot 100%

Alc vol: 12,5%

Producer: Bressan

Background

Bressan Merlot is made by Fulvio Bressan, a vintner from Isonzo in Friuli, Northern Italy. Bressan family has owned this land since the 16th century, and made wine since 1726, now counting the 9th generation of wine makers. The vineyards are on the riverside of Isonzo. Their soil consists of sediments and has high minerality, including high levels of iron.

Fulvio Bressan is a character. His wine making philosophy is all about terroir. The priority for him is to be fully responsible for the land he has inherited, which means that he is brutally honest in his vineyard care and wine making techniques. Practically all work at the vineyards is done manually. No pesticides are used, no irrigation, no yeasts and no chemicals are added to the wine (not even sulphites). However, the idea is not necessarily to produce organic wines. Instead, the logic is to be as terroir driven as possible, so that the wine would convey these vines and this land in particular. Consequently, if on a given year under these circumstances the grapes don’t reach high quality, then no wine is produced. This results in Bressan producing 0 to 40000 bottles of wine a year. Nature gives, nature takes. It is as simple as that.

Fulvio and Nereo Bressan themselves consider the vintage of 2003 amongst the best for Bressan winery. The Merlot of 2003 was grown on 50 years old vines. It has high extraction levels due to long maceration. Bold tannins and ample fruit with high acidity give this wine an excellent aging potential.