Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos 2012 Bierzo, Spain

Pétalos 2012.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Every now and then I get inspired by a wine article. This time it was Matt Kramer’s story about fantastic grape varietals that might have sneaked under the wine lovers’ radar. His description of the Spanish variety Mencia as ”broad-shouldered Pinot Noir” got me galloping towards the wine shop, and I’m grateful it did. Otherwise I could have overlooked this marvellous wine discovery.

As a reminder of its youth, this wine has a purple tint to its deep ruby hue. Pétalos (Eng. petals), faithful to its name, immediately exhibits a garden of flowers on the nose including roses, violets and even lilies. Dark fruit - cherries, both fresh and dried, and blackcurrants - follow the floral aromas. Strikingly, for a wine this age, there are further layers of developed earthy and autumnal herbaceous tones like fallen leaves and slate minerality. Astonishing complexity!

The layers of aromas of the nose continue on the palate. Cherries, herbs and minerality are evident. However, fruitiness shows restraint, which results in a fine balance with medium acidity and ripe, fine grained tannins of moderate quantity. Although there is a substantial amount of alcohol, the mouthfeel is elegantly medium-bodied and very dry. Paradoxally, this voluminous and mouth-filling wine leaves a featherlight impression. The dry finish with cherry and blackcurrant is long.

To fully appreciate this complex, medium-bodied wine, I would pair it with aromatic Spanish tapas, flavourful risotto or pasta. Charcuterie and hard cheeses would work as well. Avoiding chilli is a good idea since this otherwise airy and elegant wine has a high alcohol content.

A balanced, elegant and complex wine of great value. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 12,35  webshop santacecilia.es

USD 16,96 webshop canalswine.com

GBP 18,95 wine shop Majesticwine, UK

DKK 140 (EUR 18) wine shop Vin Specialisten, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: Bierzo, Spain

Grape: Mencia 100%?

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Descendientes de J. Palacios

Background

Bierzo has had a reputation of producing simple, fruity red wines. Known mainly by locals it remained in the back seat of wine producing Spain until 1990’s. At that time, Alvario Palacios and Ricardo Perez Palacios entered into the picture bringing change. Descendientes de J. Palacios commenced to produce characterful Mencia wines from old vines using biodynamic and organic farming and vinification methods. They decided to make single vineyard wines from vines growing on steep slopes, while the common fruity and light Bierzo were products of vineyards located low in the valleys. Currently, Descendientes de J. Palacios owns around 200 little vineyards located high on slate slopes where only manual tending to the vines is possible. As their Mencia wines in general, Pétalos has had several excellent vintages in a row. Amongst them, 2012 might be one of the most impressive.

Andréa Calek Chatons de Garde 2012, Ardeche, France

Chatons de Garde 2012.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

The colour is clear, medium ruby with a slight tint of purple. Tearing in the glass hints towards high alcohol content. The nose is aromatically multifaceted with pronounced intensity. There are autumnal ripe dark berries and fruits: cherries and cassis, as well as fresh and dried plums. Animalistic aroma components of delicate sweat and leather are also present. Fallen leaves and black pepper complete the bouquet. An image of Rhone vineyard landscape glowing in the gold of autumn sun forms in my mind.

On the palate the first strike is full bodied, fruity, and round. However, the mid palate reveals high acidity, high alcohol and great deal of tannin. The bold acid structure is well in balance with the fruitiness. Tannins are mouth filling and velvety. They can be felt on the tip and the sides of the tongue the most. The aromas on the palate follow the impressions of the nose. The fruity after taste is long and pleasant.

This wine would be beautifully complemented by an aromatic game stew. However, it would work just fine with a good steak and dark sauce, or mixed grill and vegetables.

A well integrated, balanced wine. I warmly recommend.  

Info in a nutshell

Price examples: 

USD 26.99 per bottle at Union Square Wines

EUR 49.50 per bottle at GastropubTuulensuu, Tampere, Finland

Country and region: France, Ardèche, Alba la Romaine

Grape: Syrah 100%

Producer: Andréa Calek

Background

Andrea Calek was born in former Czechoslovakia and currently lives and works as a winemaker in Ardéche, France. You could call him a bit of a bohemian of the  wine making world, I guess, since he makes wine with a hard core natural wine philosophy and lives in a trailer close to his five hectare vineyards.

He came to France in the end of the 80’s, making his way from behind the iron curtain, which proved to be a challenge. The story involves a military service in Czechoslovakia, an especially lucky opportunity to make a trip to France, falling for France, a doctor’s certificate as an attempt to get discharged from the army, which didn’t work, a return to Czechoslovakia and military service, and finally finding love in France, which gave Calek finally an opportunity to return. As a delightful result of his all this, we now have a chance to enjoy the fruits of his painstaking natural wine production.   

Calek aims at tending to the vineyards and vinifying the wines so that the outcome would be a seamlessly expressive reflection of the grape variety and the terroir. Everything that might be considered manipulating the wine is avoided. Hence, no new oak, no commercial yeasts – you get the picture. Having tasted Chatons de Garde (eng. Kittens patrolling), (and having ordered a second glass right away), I have to say that Syrah is downright glowing in this wine. Calek’s products speak for themselves.