Alberto Voerzio La Serra 2010. |
Wine review
5 of 5 stars
An outstanding wine
In most cases, Nebbiolo’s colour shows fading relatively
early. However, allowing long traditional maceration results in an
abundance of colour extraction, which is here reflected by an intensely deep ruby
colour. What follows is a pronounced flowery bouquet. Elegant rose and violet perfume
is supported by slight vanilla and toast aromas from modernist use of new
French oak. Layers of dark cherry, herbal, dried fruit and cedar aromas
complete the fascinating, etherial and bold nose and invite to explore this La
Serra cru Barolo further.
For a Barolo this young you would expect to be greeted by somewhat
tight tannins. Although they are very abundant and mouth-filling, there is
pleasantness to the tannins already. High acidity balances the high alcohol of
this structured and concentrated wine. There is plenty of fruit and, already
now, a complex aromatic profile. The aromas of cherries, dark berries, roses
and cedar form an enjoyable perfumatic lightness that is beautifully supported
by the muscularity of the acid structure. A long and nuanced cherry finish
hints towards truffles and tar.
Optimally, I would give this wine plenty more years (or
decades) to age as it has a wonderful aging potential due to its structure and
fruit. Still, its wonders are evident already now, in case you are in a hurry
to get in touch with a heavenly Nebbiolo.
Should you enjoy this superb wine at the dinner table, the
optimal pairing would resemble its aromatic profile and elegant, yet powerful
style. Piemontese cuisine gives you an idea: game, mushrooms, truffles and hard
cheeses. Sipping to this wine by itself vino
da meditazione style would be at least an equally gratifying approach.
A powerful, yet elegant and complex wine reflecting of its
terroir. Highly recommended.
Info in a nutshell
Price examples:
DKK 349 (EUR 50) webshop Piemontevine.dk
(Ships worldwide, please enquiry via email first)
DKK 900 at restaurant Fiskebaren, Copenhagen, Denmark
DKK 900 at restaurant Fiskebaren, Copenhagen, Denmark
Country and region: La Serra, La Morra, Barolo DOCG, Italy
Grape: Nebbiolo 100%
Alc vol: 14,5%
Producer: Alberto Voerzio
Background
When looking for value in Barolo, your strategy is to turn
away from the names that have become brands. Instead, I suggest you
approach skilled and small - often young - producers that are now becoming
rising stars. Amongst them is Alberto Voerzio, a young winemaker from La Morra
whose organic vineyard farming and combination of modern and traditional Barolo
winemaking techniques are influenced by his famous Barolo superstar cousin Roberto
Voerzio. The secrets behind Alberto’s characterful Barolos are very low yields,
long traditional fermentations with tight temperature control and two year
aging in 25% new French oak, the rest 75% of the barriques being used up to the
third passage. Tending to the vineyards as well as the vinification process are completely organic. No commercial yeasts, enzymes or activators are added and
only minimum amount of sulphur is used. The wines are bottled
unfiltered.
The vintage of 2010 was exceptional for Barolo. Optimal
weather conditions allowed to produce wines with fine acid structure, plenty of fruit and
complexity of aromas. Alberto Voerzio’s La Serra is a brilliant example of the high
potential of this particular vintage.
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