Livon Friulano 2014 Collio, Friuli, Italy

 

Livon Friulano 2014.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine 

Taking a glance at the almost watery, pale, lemon color of this wine you wouldn’t necessarily expect the abundance of aromas that meets the nose. Elegant and fresh floral notes are followed by clear pear and citrus aromas only to be complemented by sage-like herbal notes and, so typical of Friulano, a magnificent almondy softness. Although this wine has only received stainless steel treatment, its buttery character, most probably due to Friulano as a varietal (and not malolactic fermentation), gives more complexity to the aroma profile than expected for such a young and fresh wine.

What about the palate, then? For such a pale colored and fresh wine, there is substantial body to it. Almost approaching full body, the structure is well balanced with high acidity, plenty of fruit and well-integrated, medium alcohol. The mouth-filling weight carries the almond aroma typical of this variety at its core, while the fresh floral, pear and citrus notes create a paradoxically light impression. Exiting with a delightfully long and bitter almond-peel aftertaste, this very Friulian wine leaves a pleasant impression.

A well-balanced, aromatically somewhat complex, yet refreshing and young wine. Thanks to its high acidity and plentiful fruit pairs beautifully with fish and prosciutto – and plenty of dishes – especially Nothern European Christmas fish dishes and even the Christmas ham. Recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 16.98 Alko wine and spirits shop, Finland

USD 9.55 webshop Bernabei.com

GBP 6.39 webshop Bernabei.co.uk

Country and region: Italy, Friuli, Collio

Grapes: 70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Alc vol: 12,5%

Producer: Livon

Finnish wine bloggers unite - the mystery bottle challenge

It is a mystery!

Thanks to Vindirekt, a Finnish wine importer, each of us wine bloggers received a mystery wine bottle for blind tasting challenge. We all agreed to post the blog article on this mystery wine at the same time - on 8th of December at 23.59 GMT +2. This way none of our opinions would have an impact on the other bloggers, and objectivity of the reviews and tasting notes would be retained.

Even though the bottle labels had already been removed, the importer kindly advised us to use an assistant for uncorking of the bottle, so that the cork wouldn’t give away any information regarding the wine’s identity. In a few days from posting the mystery wine reviews we will be informed of the identity of the wine, and we will post it on our blogs. What an intriguing challenge... Challenge accepted!

Blind tasting isn’t easy - getting the identity of a wine right requires a vast amount of tasting experience, and still, it might go sideways. Personally, I find wine’s aromas to be the most fascinating aspect in the world of wine - learning to identify aromas while tasting, understanding how they are created in the wine making process, and understanding the aromas as a reflection of the climate and the terroir are all at the core of my passion. Since this time I’m not able to illuminate the background of this wine (as I know nothing about it), instead I’ll write the aromatic and structural observations I make as thoroughly as possible and this way do my best to communicate the logic behind my conclusions. It might all go horribly wrong, and then I’ll learn from it! So, dear readers, you are most welcome to join this blind tasting bungee jump to follow.

Notes of the blind tasting.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

There is a blue tint to the deep, ruby red colour of this wine. However, there is still enough red to call it ruby red, not quite purple. This colour already steers my thoughts essentially away from Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo, towards varieties with thick skins giving plenty of colour and extracts. Also, the blue tone points towards a somewhat young wine.

Aromatically, the nose of medium plus intensity is fruit driven with plenty of dark ripe fruit.  Black cherries, plums, blackcurrant juice and blackberry are accompanied by plenty of oak influence and sweet vanilla spice. Also, there are clear liquorice notes and an evident presence of black pepper followed by slight herbal elements. Leathery and sweaty animal notes add complexity to this wine, but they are rather restrained in intensity.

Based on the nose only, I’d say this wine is developing. Due to the ripe, fruit driven nature, bold use of oak and sweet nature of oak spices (American oak?), I tend to place this wine in the New World. In all honesty, I make a small round trip of Southern France in my mind for exclusion, but in the end I conclude that this oak usage doesn’t point towards France.

The peppery spice is a characteristic of a few black international varieties with high concentration of rontundone compound. Grenache is one of them, however, it tends to give red fruit flavours and a more white pepper nuanced spiciness to the wine. Shiraz, on the other hand, is well known for its black pepper character. Cabernet Sauvignon typically displays black currant notes, as is the case with this mystery wine, but other CS typical characteristics such as high acidity, astringency of tannin and herbal notes of mint and eucalyptus are lacking. However, it might be that there is some CS present as a blending component in this wine.

Structurally, this wine is rather soft, round and mouth filling on the palate, with medium acidity and plenty (medium plus to high) of alcohol. Tannin quality of this wine is ripe. Hence, it is challenging to evaluate whether there is a high or only medium plus amount of very fine grained, soft tannin present. In the end, I decide to settle for medium plus tannin as the drying in the mouth is only medium after spitting, and the body of the wine only approaches full body. The peppery character of the wine is a slight confounding factor, as it is difficult to evaluate what proportion of the tickle and burning sensation in the finish is due to rotundone and what part of it is due to high alcohol. Nevertheless, the plentiful alcohol feels well integrated on the palate. Overall, this wine is in good balance due to its abundant fruit and sturdy enough acid structure. Flavourwise, the palate is very fruity, dominated by black fruit, sweet oak spice, leather and black pepper. The finish is peppery and fruity with blackberry notes, and these pleasant aromas linger for at least a good medium length while.

From this tasting process, I’m inclined to draw the following conclusions:

1. New World (bold use of oak, sweet vanilla, fruit driven, concentrated, ripe fruit, even some stewed fruit character)

2. Not necessarily the hottest of New World Climates. The style is rather black peppery, there are even herbs, the fruit isn’t completely cooked or jammy. Cooler parts of Australia? Chile’s Casablanca or San Antonio? New Zealand’s Hawkes Bay?

3. Animalistic and earthy elements. Certain areas, such as Barossa in Australia, are well known of their Brett influenced, sweaty, high quality Shiraz wines. But is this animal/leather/sweat influence in this wine too restrained for Barossa Shiraz?

4. Shiraz. Dark fruit, black pepper, liquorice and leather. Almost full body, high alcohol. I’m going for Shiraz. It might be that there is some CS in this wine (currant), but the black fruit might be also due to Shiraz solely.

Conclusion

Because I have to say something, I say: Shiraz from Chile 2013. However, I leave an option open for cooler climate South Australian or Victoria Shiraz wines.

This wine is well made and is of high quality, although the finish could be longer. It can drink now, but I’d say it has aging potential.

Now all we can do is sit tight and wait for the exciting truth! I’ll be back soon with the identity of the wine. Tremolo!

For Finnish speaking wine lovers, you can find the reviews of the mystery wine also on the following wine blogs:
Rypäleistä viis
Copatinto
Viiniministeri

Loppasuut

Viinihullun päiväkirja

Viinikartta

Pullonhenki

Blanc de Blancs

Wineserver

Veni Vidi Viini

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir 2012 Martinborough, New Zealand

Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir 2012

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Typically pale, ruby red colour of Pinot Noir is followed by an elegant nose. Scents of sour, ripe, red fruit such as cranberries and red cherries are surrounded by floral, mostly rose resembling aromas. Further, a more developed layer of aromas emerges – notes of fallen autumn leaves, forest floor and minerality bring finesse to this wine. The all over elegance of the aroma profile communicates the adequately cool growing environment necessary for Pinot Noir.

On the palate the structure is medium bodied and concentrated. The refreshingly high acidity lifts the acid structure, while the tannins remain pinotnoirishly low. This level of acidity is definitely necessary to reach balance with the abundant fruit and the relatively high - yet beautifully integrated -  alcohol. Aromatically, the floral notes, red cherries and minerality come to the foreground on the palate. The medium plus length aftertaste of cherries, savoury minerality, and a hint of oak leaves behind an overall pleasant impression.

An aromatically elegant, very well balanced new world Pinot Noir to the festive season. Whether you choice is turkey or ham (as is traditional in Finland at Christmas dinner), this affordable, and still elegant, fruity and acidic red with light tannin will make an excellent pairing. Recommended.

Info in a nutshell

EUR 19.99 Alko wine and spirit shop, Finland

GBP 17.71 matthewclark.co.uk

AUD 33.99 danmurphys.com.au

Country and region: New Zealand, Martinborough

Grape: 100% Pinot Noir

Alc vol: 14%

Producer: Te Kairanga Wines

Folonari Cabreo Il Borgo 2011 Toscana IGT, Italy

Cabreo Il Borgo 2011.

 

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

With the best blended supertuscans you get the best of the both worlds - in this case the crispy elegance of Sangiovese and the concentrated dark fruit roundness of Cabernet Sauvignon. This particular wine really stopped me with its complete character. Impressively elegant acid structure meets mouth filling body and nuanced, developed aromatics.

One might argue that the “Wine of the Year” sticker next to the label biased my tasting note. However, being aware of the vast amount of awards on offer in competitions, I just tend to be, if possible, even more critical towards a wine should it have a medal sticker attached to it. Nevertheless, Cabreo Il Borgo is THE wine I recommend for pairing with red meat, especially game, during the festive season. Also, it works wonders with hard cheeses - or just by itself while enjoying the Christmas mood.

The clear, ruby red colour of medium intensity is followed by developed, elegant aromatics: ripe red and fresh black fruit, such as sour cherries, dark cherries and plum form the restrained and elegant fruit core that is surrounded by pungent spice and herbal oils, especially anise and liquorice, but also a hint of vanilla and, more clearly, smoke and toast notes.

Surprisingly, Cabreo Il Borgo’s palate is even more intense than the nose. Concentrated, fruity and full-bodied, this wine boasts with an abundance of dark fruit, especially dark cherry aromas. The concentrated fruit is well balanced with high and well-integrated alcohol, medium plus acidity and plentiful yet round and velvety tannin. What was more restrained on the nose is now pronounced, and the development of the aromas even more detectable: leather, cigar box and a note of black olive accompany the liquorice and smoke. I find this wine intriguing. The aromas are developed and challenging, and still, the fruit core of the flavours potentially makes it everyone’s favourite. As a stamp of excellent quality, the finish is long and immensely pleasant combination of cherry, liquorice and smoke.

An excellently balanced, aromatically nuanced wine. It can well drink now, but has a great structure for further aging. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 23 webshop SoundTaste (ships within EU)

EUR 36.90 Alko wine and spirits shop, Finland

USD 29.99 webshop Wally Wine

Country and region: Italy, Tuscany

Grapes: 70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Folonari

La Viarte Pignolo Riserva 2005 Friuli, Italy

La Viarte Pignolo Riserva 2005.

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

Dear vinous friends, this wine is truly divine.  La Viarte Pignolo Riserva 2005 is a spectacular example of what can be achieved when this Friulian grape is grown and vinified respecting its varietal potential. La Viarte is an important premium wine producer in the village of Prepotto, in Colli Orientali del Friuli. Their methods of vineyard care are ecologically aware, aiming at respecting the vines and the delicate balance of the nature. Although, at this point, I’m well acquainted with what can be accomplished with Pignolo, tasting this wine makes me still go weak at the knees.

Intense and deep in its ruby red colour, this wine boasts an elegant version of the aromatics so typical of Pignolo. At first, the pronounced nose offers a soft, floral perfume of powder immediately followed by cranberry-like red forest fruit. Deepness of ripe cherries and plum aromas forms a background to the freshness of the forest fruit. The more developed aromatic layers present spiciness, coffee and leather. Further, the aromas of oak are very subtle and well integrated considering this wine has been matured in barriques for 24 months. What I find so special about Pignolo is the alluring combination of the very feminine nuance of floral perfume of powder and the wildness of the forest fruit. This wine is a particularly fine example of this varietal aromatic uniqueness.

When it comes to acid structure, Pignolo possesses a huge aging potential as well as an aging requirement due to its abundant tight tannin in youth. To become agreeable and show the grape’s potential, it requires at least around ten years to soften and integrate its tannins. La Viarte’s Pignolo, at the time point of 10 years from the vintage, has a surprisingly velvety yet firm, full-bodied mouth feel, and is very well balanced, developed and complex. Still, it remains very fresh fruit-wise. The plentiful fruit and structural components balance the relatively high alcohol very well. Pignolo’s signature, the structural backbone of tannin, creates paradoxical elegance in the mouth as it provides the otherwise full-bodied wine with a good posture and narrows it on the tongue. Aromatically, the forest fruit lead the way, as the black peppery spiciness and coffee linger in the background. Finishing with a pleasantly fruitful and fresh aftertaste that remains, this wine leaves a lasting impression.

Well balanced, aromatically complex, a particularly fine example of Pignolo. Warmly recommended.

Although I tend to concentrate on wine bar recommendations, I can’t write about this wine with good consciousness without giving you, dear readers, a vinous restaurant tip. I ran into La Viarte Pignolo in Trattoria Al Giardinetto, in Cormons. Proving to be a true wine lover’s paradise, Al Giardinetto presented us with an impressive wine list and outstanding food as well as lovely and professional service in all regards. You can find this restaurant in Michelin guide Italy, and although it doesn’t have a star, its place in the guide is well justified.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 68 webshop friuliwineandfood.it (request shipment possibilities via email)

GBP 49.20 webshop whisperwines.com (ships only to UK)

NZD 194.99 webshop villagewinery.co.nz

Country and region: Italy, Friuli Venezia-Giulia, Colli Orientali, Prepotto

Grapes: 100% Pignolo

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: La Viarte

Cavalleri Pas Dosé Franciacorta 2010 Lombardy, Italy

Cavalleri Pas Dosé Franciacorta 2010

Wine review

3 of 5 stars

A good wine

I’m attempting my very best to squint my eyes in the pitch-black night of Brescia, but no. I can’t say much about the colour or the bubble quality of this Franciacorta apart from that it looks temptingly fresh as water condenses on the surface of the glass. After a day of blazing sun the temperature is still 30 degrees Celsius. Not a very objective starting point for reviewing a chilled bubbly, I admit!

Chardonnay is conveyed identifiably and elegantly on the nose. Citrus character dominating, there are also marked notes of white flowers and a hint of fresh apricot. Even though lees influence can be detected, these aromas aren’t very developed but remain more yeasty than anything else.

Crispy dry, florally fresh and finely bubbling, this light bodied Franciacorta has a wonderful mouth feel. Very high acidity is complemented by medium fruitiness. Flavourwise the story continues along the same lines with the nose – floral and citrus notes are leading the way, while slight yeasty notes of lees appear on the mid-palate. Lime flavour stays for a medium length in the finish.

Although this sparkling wine reflects its variety and terroir, I find it somewhat simplistic aromatically – hence a good wine instead of very good. Nevertheless, it is definitely good and I would have it again in an instant, should Finland be so lucky to still get a couple of sunny days this summer.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 6/glass, EUR 24/bottle wine bar Dolcevite, Brescia, Lombardy, Italy

EUR 28.55 web shop www.saporedivino.biz (site in Italian only)

Country and region: Italy, Lombardy, Franciacorta DOCG, Erbusco

Grapes: 100% Chardonnay

Alc vol: 12,5%

Producer: Cavalleri

Cavalleri Pas Dosé and Duomo Vecchio di Brescia

Background

Franciacorta, “Champagne of Italy”, lies in Lombardy, on the shore of lake Iseo, neighbouring the city of Brescia. Although Franciacorta is now regarded probably the most prestigious sparkling wine of Italy, the history of this noble bubbly remains relatively short. It was only in 1961 when the oenologist Franco Ziliani of Berlucchi winery envisioned a bottle fermented sparkling wine. Preceding, only still wines for everyday use were produced in the area.

The vision proved to be successful as Franciacorta rightfully received a DOCG status in 1995. Today, this champagne character sparkling wine is produced to highest of standards, solely from Chardonnay and Spätburgunder grapes, with the exception of allowing for maximum of 15% of Grauburgunder in the blends. Franciacorta stays on lees minimum of 18 months, the requirement being minimum of 30 months for vintage wines. Cavalleri Pas Dosé 2010 has had lees contact of at least 42 months, and its remuage has been manual.

This Pas Dosé 2010 is very dry indeed, as no sugar has been added post disgorgement. Not adding sugar at this stage influences also the development of the wine from this point on. Typically, the proteins released from the lees before disgorgement would now further interact with the newly added sugar creating more complex lees flavours such as those of honey, toast and nuts. Further development also occurs in pas dosé wines, but in a different, less understood manner, as this method is relatively new in sparkling wine production. Hence, it may well be that my slight disappointment towards the aromatics of this wine is due to its pas dosé –typicity, which is a novel area to me. Obviously, I’d need to try more of these wines to gain insight. I’ve got no objections to that!

Julicher Pinot Noir 2011 Martinborough, New Zealand

Julicher Estate's vineyards are situated in Te Muna Valley. (Image: Julicher.)

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Fitting for Pinot Noir, the colour is ruby red and medium, or even pale, in intensity. Although this wine is still quite young, there is a slight garnet tint on the rim. Delightful multiple layers of aromas open up on the nose: floral, perfumatic aromas as well as dried plums accompany red and black cherries. Subtle nuances of conserved cherries and cherry jam are detectable. New French oak has been used for 25% of the wine for 11 months, which gives clear yet elegant accent of vanilla, coffee and chocolate to this wine. After some aeriation time in the glass layers of attractive, developed tones appear: leather, mushrooms, even truffles. The conserved and jammy fruit elements could refer to a warm growth period. On the other hand, floral aromas are still beautifully detectable. 

Julicher Pinot Noir 2011 has a beautiful colour.

High in acidity, this wine is very “Pinot Noirish” on the first strike. Further, the tannins are light, velvety and fine-grained. The story of multifaceted aromatic elegance continues on the palate: now there are flowers, chocolate and earthy minerality on the foreground. However, the medium-bodied mouthfeel appears somewhat heavy and wide due to relatively high alcohol. Although high alcohol slightly challenges the balance, nuanced aromas and fruitiness are just enough to keep up with it, while the crisp acidity keeps the wine’s head held high structurally. Ending with an aromatic and long finish, Julicher Pinot Noir 2011 exits with elegance.

Intriguing and complex, this wine is a high quality example of a new world Pinot Noir.  

A glass of deliciousness was poured at Bar Latva, Helsinki.

 

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 9,90 per glass, EUR 58 per bottle, Bar Latva, Helsinki, Finland

EUR 199,20 per 6 bottles (EUR 33 per bottle) wine and liquor store Alko, Finland

NZD 45,99 (EUR 28,59) finewinedelivery.co.nz, New Zealand

SGD 55 (EUR 36,70) wineexchangeasia.com, Singapore

Country and region: New Zealand, Martinborough

Grape: Pinot Noir 100%

Alc vol: 13,5%

Producer: Julicher Estate

Julicher's winemaker Outi Jakovirta is from Finland. (Image: Julicher.)

Background

New Zealands most praised Pinot Noirs come from Martinborough area on the southern tip of the North Island. The terroir of this area resembles Burgundy with its long growth season, cool nights and warm, dry days. As a variety, Pinot Noir is demanding and brutally honest in reflecting the growth conditions. Many new world winemakers are challenged with heat when it comes to Pinot Noir since this variety tends to lose its subtle, complex, floral and fruity characteristics and produce jammy wines when exposed to too much warmth. However, in Martinborough the vineyards have an advantage of high altitude, which creates a cooling effect. In addition, Julicher’s vineyards’ soil consists of free-draining alluvial gravel, which - combined with the low rainfall of the area – create superb conditions for growing Pinot Noir grapes rich in aromatic compounds.

Finnish born Outi Jakovirta is the head winemaker of Julicher Estate. She has studied oenology in the Lincoln University in New Zealand and worked in France, Germany, Australia and California. Her excellent winemaking skills are widely recognized and awarded. Amongst her many achievements is Best in Show awarded to Julicher Pinot Noir 2010 by Sommelier Wine Awards last year.

Julicher Estate is a small producer committed to sustainable wine production. Being an accredited sustainable winegrowing vineyard means using organic fertilizers and disease and pest sprays made from natural ingredients. 

Pinot Noir made by Outi has been awarded many times. (Image: Julicher)

Maquinon Garnacha 2013 Priorat DOCa, Spain

 

Maquinon Garnacha 2010.

Wine review

3 of 5 stars

A good wine

This young Garnacha wine shows a clear, ruby red colour of medium intensity. Fresh and simple on the nose, this wine has a focused aromatic profile of fresh red fruit with light spice and oak aromas. Red cherries dominate with strawberry appearing on their side. Having matured for four months in oak casks, this wine also has a slight scent of vanilla.

The first strike is medium bodied, markedly fruity and round.  On the mid-palate pleasant white pepper notes accompany the red cherries. Tannins are medium in amount and quite ripe. However, there is some roughness to the tannins. Acidity is also of medium intensity, while fruit as well as alcohol are abundant. As a result the balance is not optimal but tends to lean towards fruit and alcohol creating a very round overall impression. The acid structure doesn’t have quite enough power to support all the weight. Ending with a pleasant medium length, white pepper finish, this wine steers my thoughts to barbecue parties, where it would certainly serve its purpose.

Not too complex while quite alcoholic, this BBQ wine would be best served with fatty meats like sausages, ribs and pork chops. Also, it will be able to tolerate all kinds of sauces and grilled sides due to its simple, fruity nature. Even foods with plenty of umami, such as fresh mushrooms and asparagus, would work without a problem because there’s so much fruit in this wine.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 100 (EUR 13) per glass, wine bar Antidote, Copenhagen, Denmark

DKK 135 (EUR 18) wine shop Smalle Vin, Kööpenhamina

EUR 19.50 web shop ebuywines.com

USD 23.99  web shop heightschateau.com

Country and region: Spain, Priorat

Grapes: Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mazuela

Alc vol: 14%

Producer: Casa Rojo

Background

Spain has only two wine regions with the highest DOCa classification: Priorat and Rioja. Maquinon Garnacha comes from Priorat, and is made of the area’s dominant grape Garnacha (in French Grenache). Even though Garnacha is widely planted in Spanish vineyards, apart from Priorat the rest of Spain mainly uses Garnacha only as a component in blended wines. AS a thin-skinned grape with high demands for a very warm climate it presents the winemaker a challenge. Creating intensely coloured, full-bodied wines with a proper acid structure from 100% Garnacha is a vexing task.  Priorat and Souther Rhone the two wine regions in the world that reach this kind of peak results with Garnacha. More simple style Garnacha wines are easy to drink, fruity and slightly peppery. This is exactly the role Garnacha has in wine blends: to soften the somewhat tougher grapes with potent tannins and acidity, such as Tempranillo and Syrah.

Casa Rojo is a negotiant producing natural and organic wines from the most important wine regions in Spain. The label of Maquinon Garnacha indicates 100% Garnacha, however the technical sheet of the wine mentions also Mazuela and Cabernet Sauvignon leaving the percentages of their usage unclear. Hence, the final truth of the grape consistence of this wine remains an enigma, but the wine is marketed as 100% Garnacha.

Alberto Voerzio La Serra 2010 Barolo DOCG, Italy

Alberto Voerzio La Serra 2010.

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

In most cases, Nebbiolo’s colour shows fading relatively early. However, allowing long traditional maceration results in an abundance of colour extraction, which is here reflected by an intensely deep ruby colour. What follows is a pronounced flowery bouquet. Elegant rose and violet perfume is supported by slight vanilla and toast aromas from modernist use of new French oak. Layers of dark cherry, herbal, dried fruit and cedar aromas complete the fascinating, etherial and bold nose and invite to explore this La Serra cru Barolo further.

For a Barolo this young you would expect to be greeted by somewhat tight tannins. Although they are very abundant and mouth-filling, there is pleasantness to the tannins already. High acidity balances the high alcohol of this structured and concentrated wine. There is plenty of fruit and, already now, a complex aromatic profile. The aromas of cherries, dark berries, roses and cedar form an enjoyable perfumatic lightness that is beautifully supported by the muscularity of the acid structure. A long and nuanced cherry finish hints towards truffles and tar.

Optimally, I would give this wine plenty more years (or decades) to age as it has a wonderful aging potential due to its structure and fruit. Still, its wonders are evident already now, in case you are in a hurry to get in touch with a heavenly Nebbiolo.

Should you enjoy this superb wine at the dinner table, the optimal pairing would resemble its aromatic profile and elegant, yet powerful style. Piemontese cuisine gives you an idea: game, mushrooms, truffles and hard cheeses. Sipping to this wine by itself vino da meditazione style would be at least an equally gratifying approach.

A powerful, yet elegant and complex wine reflecting of its terroir. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 349 (EUR 50) webshop Piemontevine.dk

(Ships worldwide, please enquiry via email first)
DKK 900 at restaurant Fiskebaren, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: La Serra, La Morra, Barolo DOCG, Italy

Grape: Nebbiolo 100%

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Alberto Voerzio

Background

When looking for value in Barolo, your strategy is to turn away from the names that have become brands. Instead, I suggest you approach skilled and small - often young - producers that are now becoming rising stars. Amongst them is Alberto Voerzio, a young winemaker from La Morra whose organic vineyard farming and combination of modern and traditional Barolo winemaking techniques are influenced by his famous Barolo superstar cousin Roberto Voerzio. The secrets behind Alberto’s characterful Barolos are very low yields, long traditional fermentations with tight temperature control and two year aging in 25% new French oak, the rest 75% of the barriques being used up to the third passage. Tending to the vineyards as well as the vinification process are completely organic. No commercial yeasts, enzymes or activators are added and only minimum amount of sulphur is used. The wines are bottled unfiltered.

The vintage of 2010 was exceptional for Barolo. Optimal weather conditions allowed to produce wines with fine acid structure, plenty of fruit and complexity of aromas. Alberto Voerzio’s La Serra is a brilliant example of the high potential of this particular vintage.

Chateau de Cayx 2010 Cahors, France

Chateau de Cayx 2010.

Wine review

3 of 5 stars

A good wine

Fitting for Cahors, this wine is almost black. The dark, deep ruby hue has a drop of purple in it. Scents of dark berries and fruits, plum, blackberries and black cherries are pronounced and fresh. Forming a more developed background to the fruit, there is plenty of spice, as well as some leather and farmyard aromas. Not entirely pleasant to my nose, a certain river-stone minerality with a hint of algae or moss character is perceptible. Finally, an elegant cigar smoke aroma is revealed following an hour in a decanter.

Having a full body and very powerful, concentrated acidity as well as medium tannins, this wine has plenty of aging potential. Dark plums and black berries dominate the aromatic palate. Nevertheless, the spice and smoke are evident as well, now intertwined with chocolate and liquorice nuances. Tannin quality is round and velvety already now in 2015. The spicy finish is medium length and pleasant. Although there is interesting aromatic complexity, an abundance of fruit and mostly pleasant tannin, the balance of this wine steers somewhat to the bitter and acidic side. Bottle age will integrate the structure further and show the potential of this still relatively young wine.

Aromatically complex and high in acid this wine would benefit from pairing with acidic foods as well as aromatic dark meat dishes, for example game or lamb with herbs. Decanting is good idea as there might be some deposit.

A good, concentrated, quality Malbec from Cahors.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 175 (EUR 24)  webshop vildmedvin.dk (ships also abroad)

DKK 170 wine shop Vinspecialisten, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: Cahors, France

Grape: Malbec 100%

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Chateau de Cayx

Background

Fascinatingly, Chateau de Cayx is owned by His Royal Highness Prince Henrik of Denmark.  Considering this and the fact that I’m an admirer of boldly structured wines, I could not resist this particular Cahors Malbec when I ran into it. The wine-merchant told me that HRH Prince Henrik has developed the chateau significantly during the recent years, aiming at excellent quality. A highly skilled enologist and winemaker has been brought in and the vineyards have been replanted.

Cahors is historically known for its black wine, or vin noir de Lot - Lot being synonymous for Malbec. Eventhough Cahors wines are not made by evaporating water from the Malbec juice anymore, and hence are not black, still a minimum of 70% of Malbec is required for Cahors AOC. Small percentages of Merlot and Tannat are often blended to Malbec to make these wines more approachable. They benefit from bottle age due to Malbec’s high tannin and acidity, and can be quite tight when opened too early. Chateau de Cayx 2010, however, is made of 100% Malbec.

Descendientes de J. Palacios Pétalos 2012 Bierzo, Spain

Pétalos 2012.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Every now and then I get inspired by a wine article. This time it was Matt Kramer’s story about fantastic grape varietals that might have sneaked under the wine lovers’ radar. His description of the Spanish variety Mencia as ”broad-shouldered Pinot Noir” got me galloping towards the wine shop, and I’m grateful it did. Otherwise I could have overlooked this marvellous wine discovery.

As a reminder of its youth, this wine has a purple tint to its deep ruby hue. Pétalos (Eng. petals), faithful to its name, immediately exhibits a garden of flowers on the nose including roses, violets and even lilies. Dark fruit - cherries, both fresh and dried, and blackcurrants - follow the floral aromas. Strikingly, for a wine this age, there are further layers of developed earthy and autumnal herbaceous tones like fallen leaves and slate minerality. Astonishing complexity!

The layers of aromas of the nose continue on the palate. Cherries, herbs and minerality are evident. However, fruitiness shows restraint, which results in a fine balance with medium acidity and ripe, fine grained tannins of moderate quantity. Although there is a substantial amount of alcohol, the mouthfeel is elegantly medium-bodied and very dry. Paradoxally, this voluminous and mouth-filling wine leaves a featherlight impression. The dry finish with cherry and blackcurrant is long.

To fully appreciate this complex, medium-bodied wine, I would pair it with aromatic Spanish tapas, flavourful risotto or pasta. Charcuterie and hard cheeses would work as well. Avoiding chilli is a good idea since this otherwise airy and elegant wine has a high alcohol content.

A balanced, elegant and complex wine of great value. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 12,35  webshop santacecilia.es

USD 16,96 webshop canalswine.com

GBP 18,95 wine shop Majesticwine, UK

DKK 140 (EUR 18) wine shop Vin Specialisten, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: Bierzo, Spain

Grape: Mencia 100%?

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Descendientes de J. Palacios

Background

Bierzo has had a reputation of producing simple, fruity red wines. Known mainly by locals it remained in the back seat of wine producing Spain until 1990’s. At that time, Alvario Palacios and Ricardo Perez Palacios entered into the picture bringing change. Descendientes de J. Palacios commenced to produce characterful Mencia wines from old vines using biodynamic and organic farming and vinification methods. They decided to make single vineyard wines from vines growing on steep slopes, while the common fruity and light Bierzo were products of vineyards located low in the valleys. Currently, Descendientes de J. Palacios owns around 200 little vineyards located high on slate slopes where only manual tending to the vines is possible. As their Mencia wines in general, Pétalos has had several excellent vintages in a row. Amongst them, 2012 might be one of the most impressive.

P-U-R Beaujolais-Villages 2013, Beaujolais, France

P-U-R Beujolais-Villages 2013.

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Should you be bored with Beaujolais candy-potions, this wine presents you with an opportunity to taste a different style of Beaujolais. 

True to the nature of Gamay variety, this wine is pale, clear, ruby in colour. However, the nose is a different story. From a Beaujolais, I would ordinarily expect some fresh banana and candy-like strawberry aromas due to carbonic maceration but these are non-existent. The surprisingly multifaceted, medium intensity aroma profile is first accentuated by flowers followed by red fresh berries and finally some farmyard funk. Violets, red cherries, raspberries and cranberries form a fresh scenery that is elegantly intertwined with a backdrop of subtle animalistic depth.

On the palate, high acidity and abundant fruit depict the first strike. Very fine grained, light tannins and crisp acidity generate a light and etherial mouthfeel. Although Gamay usually gives low-tannin wines, in this case these light tannins are clearly perceptible. In tandem with vivid acidity, they enjoyably balance the complex red fruit and animalistic aromas of the mid-palate. Finishing with a medium length cranberry aftertaste, this wine leaves a pleasant impression.

Vibrant, fruity and fresh, this Beaujolais is best enjoyed now or during the next few years. Its light, acidic nature invites vegetable based dishes like grilled zucchini. Fish and light meat dishes could also be paired successfully with this light, acidic, floral red wine.

A graceful example of Beaujolais-Villages natural wine. 

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

USD 14 at Brooklynwineexchange.com

EUR 7.50 per glass and 47.50 per bottle at Gastropub Tuulensuu, Tampere, Finland

Country and region: France, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages

Grape: Gamay 100%

Alc vol: 10,5%

Producer: Product Unique Rebelle, P-U-R

Background

P-U-R (Product Unique Rebelle) is a negociant owning a few hectares of vineyards and buying the rest of their grapes from organic farmers. Adhering to strictly natural winemaking style for P-U-R doesn’t mean taking risks in terms of wine faults. High quality is not a laughing matter to P-U-R, although they sure like to make rebellious fun of wine world phenomena. P-U-R’s Finnish importer told me that a while ago P-U-R aptly placed a banana smelling sticker on their Beaujolais wine’s label as a comment on the direction taken by aromatic development of wines in the area. In my opinion, an aromatically versatile, interesting and pleasant wine like P-U-R Beaujolais-Villages is a statement on the subject in itself.