Julicher Pinot Noir 2011 Martinborough, New Zealand

Julicher Estate's vineyards are situated in Te Muna Valley. (Image: Julicher.)

Wine review

4 of 5 stars

A very good wine

Fitting for Pinot Noir, the colour is ruby red and medium, or even pale, in intensity. Although this wine is still quite young, there is a slight garnet tint on the rim. Delightful multiple layers of aromas open up on the nose: floral, perfumatic aromas as well as dried plums accompany red and black cherries. Subtle nuances of conserved cherries and cherry jam are detectable. New French oak has been used for 25% of the wine for 11 months, which gives clear yet elegant accent of vanilla, coffee and chocolate to this wine. After some aeriation time in the glass layers of attractive, developed tones appear: leather, mushrooms, even truffles. The conserved and jammy fruit elements could refer to a warm growth period. On the other hand, floral aromas are still beautifully detectable. 

Julicher Pinot Noir 2011 has a beautiful colour.

High in acidity, this wine is very “Pinot Noirish” on the first strike. Further, the tannins are light, velvety and fine-grained. The story of multifaceted aromatic elegance continues on the palate: now there are flowers, chocolate and earthy minerality on the foreground. However, the medium-bodied mouthfeel appears somewhat heavy and wide due to relatively high alcohol. Although high alcohol slightly challenges the balance, nuanced aromas and fruitiness are just enough to keep up with it, while the crisp acidity keeps the wine’s head held high structurally. Ending with an aromatic and long finish, Julicher Pinot Noir 2011 exits with elegance.

Intriguing and complex, this wine is a high quality example of a new world Pinot Noir.  

A glass of deliciousness was poured at Bar Latva, Helsinki.

 

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

EUR 9,90 per glass, EUR 58 per bottle, Bar Latva, Helsinki, Finland

EUR 199,20 per 6 bottles (EUR 33 per bottle) wine and liquor store Alko, Finland

NZD 45,99 (EUR 28,59) finewinedelivery.co.nz, New Zealand

SGD 55 (EUR 36,70) wineexchangeasia.com, Singapore

Country and region: New Zealand, Martinborough

Grape: Pinot Noir 100%

Alc vol: 13,5%

Producer: Julicher Estate

Julicher's winemaker Outi Jakovirta is from Finland. (Image: Julicher.)

Background

New Zealands most praised Pinot Noirs come from Martinborough area on the southern tip of the North Island. The terroir of this area resembles Burgundy with its long growth season, cool nights and warm, dry days. As a variety, Pinot Noir is demanding and brutally honest in reflecting the growth conditions. Many new world winemakers are challenged with heat when it comes to Pinot Noir since this variety tends to lose its subtle, complex, floral and fruity characteristics and produce jammy wines when exposed to too much warmth. However, in Martinborough the vineyards have an advantage of high altitude, which creates a cooling effect. In addition, Julicher’s vineyards’ soil consists of free-draining alluvial gravel, which - combined with the low rainfall of the area – create superb conditions for growing Pinot Noir grapes rich in aromatic compounds.

Finnish born Outi Jakovirta is the head winemaker of Julicher Estate. She has studied oenology in the Lincoln University in New Zealand and worked in France, Germany, Australia and California. Her excellent winemaking skills are widely recognized and awarded. Amongst her many achievements is Best in Show awarded to Julicher Pinot Noir 2010 by Sommelier Wine Awards last year.

Julicher Estate is a small producer committed to sustainable wine production. Being an accredited sustainable winegrowing vineyard means using organic fertilizers and disease and pest sprays made from natural ingredients. 

Pinot Noir made by Outi has been awarded many times. (Image: Julicher)

Recommended in Helsinki, Finland – Latva Bar

Latva's interior is rustique and minimalistic.

My criteria for a delightful wine bar are pretty straightforward: a smart, extensive wine list and engaged, wine wise service. If the interior is atmospheric, it is a definite bonus. Some of the best wine bars still manage to go beyond these expectations. They focus their wine thinking creating a centre of gravity for their business concept – a true wine philosophy. Dear wine lovers, all this is achieved by Latva Bar.

Latva’s philosophy is to present premium wines from small produces, craft beers from Finnish small breweries and drinks made of fresh, local produce. Ensuring the high quality of wines is Latva’s primary aim, which is obtained by finding small, passionate, artisanal wine producers with true craftsmanship. Their wines have heart starting with the people who made them. As a positive side product of these producer prerequisites, Latva's wines tend to be organically produced – either certified, or even if lacking certification, minimally interventionist in style. No industrial large volume wines enter Latva’s wine list. 

Jesse introduced me to Latva's wine philosophy.

Ah, let’s then discuss the wine list. At the moment, Latva has no cellar list but concentrates on wines that drink well just now. Altogether there are around 50 wines and champagnes on offer. Amazingly, you can order around 40 of them by the glass. And of course, you can sample the wines first before choosing what to order - otherwise this wouldn’t be Latva. The wine list is constantly changing according to seasons and depending on the sizes of deliveries obtained from the producers. Most represented are old world countries such as Italy, Germany, Spain and Austria. However, amongst them are some pearls from the new world, such as Julicher’s Pinot Noir made by a Finnish winemaker Outi Jakovirta in Martinborough, New Zealand (review coming soon). Sometimes there are also interesting rarities on the list, such as Greek wines. 

Customers seasonally changing needs are reflected by the list, as there are more white wines on offer in the summer when you can sip them luxuriously on Latva’s sunny terrace. And to warm you up, there are proportionately more red wines in the winter. The ever-changing wine list is always staying current.

Should you be hungry, Latva offers lunch as well as ”sapas” in the evening. Sapas are a Finnish version of tapas prepared from local produce. Latva’s big brother, gourmet restaurant Juuri, has created the famous concept. Compared to the ones offered by Juuri, Latva’s sapas are more substantial in size and more rustique in style, fitting to the bar environment. The menu is written anew on a chalkboard every evening. Needless to say, also foodies are at home at Latva.

Relaxed, current and winesavvy wine bar in the center of Helsinki. Warmly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Latva Bar

Korkeavuorenkatu 25, 00130 Helsinki

latva@latva.fi,

+358 50 3818544

http://latva.fi

Maquinon Garnacha 2013 Priorat DOCa, Spain

 

Maquinon Garnacha 2010.

Wine review

3 of 5 stars

A good wine

This young Garnacha wine shows a clear, ruby red colour of medium intensity. Fresh and simple on the nose, this wine has a focused aromatic profile of fresh red fruit with light spice and oak aromas. Red cherries dominate with strawberry appearing on their side. Having matured for four months in oak casks, this wine also has a slight scent of vanilla.

The first strike is medium bodied, markedly fruity and round.  On the mid-palate pleasant white pepper notes accompany the red cherries. Tannins are medium in amount and quite ripe. However, there is some roughness to the tannins. Acidity is also of medium intensity, while fruit as well as alcohol are abundant. As a result the balance is not optimal but tends to lean towards fruit and alcohol creating a very round overall impression. The acid structure doesn’t have quite enough power to support all the weight. Ending with a pleasant medium length, white pepper finish, this wine steers my thoughts to barbecue parties, where it would certainly serve its purpose.

Not too complex while quite alcoholic, this BBQ wine would be best served with fatty meats like sausages, ribs and pork chops. Also, it will be able to tolerate all kinds of sauces and grilled sides due to its simple, fruity nature. Even foods with plenty of umami, such as fresh mushrooms and asparagus, would work without a problem because there’s so much fruit in this wine.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 100 (EUR 13) per glass, wine bar Antidote, Copenhagen, Denmark

DKK 135 (EUR 18) wine shop Smalle Vin, Kööpenhamina

EUR 19.50 web shop ebuywines.com

USD 23.99  web shop heightschateau.com

Country and region: Spain, Priorat

Grapes: Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mazuela

Alc vol: 14%

Producer: Casa Rojo

Background

Spain has only two wine regions with the highest DOCa classification: Priorat and Rioja. Maquinon Garnacha comes from Priorat, and is made of the area’s dominant grape Garnacha (in French Grenache). Even though Garnacha is widely planted in Spanish vineyards, apart from Priorat the rest of Spain mainly uses Garnacha only as a component in blended wines. AS a thin-skinned grape with high demands for a very warm climate it presents the winemaker a challenge. Creating intensely coloured, full-bodied wines with a proper acid structure from 100% Garnacha is a vexing task.  Priorat and Souther Rhone the two wine regions in the world that reach this kind of peak results with Garnacha. More simple style Garnacha wines are easy to drink, fruity and slightly peppery. This is exactly the role Garnacha has in wine blends: to soften the somewhat tougher grapes with potent tannins and acidity, such as Tempranillo and Syrah.

Casa Rojo is a negotiant producing natural and organic wines from the most important wine regions in Spain. The label of Maquinon Garnacha indicates 100% Garnacha, however the technical sheet of the wine mentions also Mazuela and Cabernet Sauvignon leaving the percentages of their usage unclear. Hence, the final truth of the grape consistence of this wine remains an enigma, but the wine is marketed as 100% Garnacha.

Alberto Voerzio La Serra 2010 Barolo DOCG, Italy

Alberto Voerzio La Serra 2010.

Wine review

5 of 5 stars

An outstanding wine

In most cases, Nebbiolo’s colour shows fading relatively early. However, allowing long traditional maceration results in an abundance of colour extraction, which is here reflected by an intensely deep ruby colour. What follows is a pronounced flowery bouquet. Elegant rose and violet perfume is supported by slight vanilla and toast aromas from modernist use of new French oak. Layers of dark cherry, herbal, dried fruit and cedar aromas complete the fascinating, etherial and bold nose and invite to explore this La Serra cru Barolo further.

For a Barolo this young you would expect to be greeted by somewhat tight tannins. Although they are very abundant and mouth-filling, there is pleasantness to the tannins already. High acidity balances the high alcohol of this structured and concentrated wine. There is plenty of fruit and, already now, a complex aromatic profile. The aromas of cherries, dark berries, roses and cedar form an enjoyable perfumatic lightness that is beautifully supported by the muscularity of the acid structure. A long and nuanced cherry finish hints towards truffles and tar.

Optimally, I would give this wine plenty more years (or decades) to age as it has a wonderful aging potential due to its structure and fruit. Still, its wonders are evident already now, in case you are in a hurry to get in touch with a heavenly Nebbiolo.

Should you enjoy this superb wine at the dinner table, the optimal pairing would resemble its aromatic profile and elegant, yet powerful style. Piemontese cuisine gives you an idea: game, mushrooms, truffles and hard cheeses. Sipping to this wine by itself vino da meditazione style would be at least an equally gratifying approach.

A powerful, yet elegant and complex wine reflecting of its terroir. Highly recommended.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 349 (EUR 50) webshop Piemontevine.dk

(Ships worldwide, please enquiry via email first)
DKK 900 at restaurant Fiskebaren, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: La Serra, La Morra, Barolo DOCG, Italy

Grape: Nebbiolo 100%

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Alberto Voerzio

Background

When looking for value in Barolo, your strategy is to turn away from the names that have become brands. Instead, I suggest you approach skilled and small - often young - producers that are now becoming rising stars. Amongst them is Alberto Voerzio, a young winemaker from La Morra whose organic vineyard farming and combination of modern and traditional Barolo winemaking techniques are influenced by his famous Barolo superstar cousin Roberto Voerzio. The secrets behind Alberto’s characterful Barolos are very low yields, long traditional fermentations with tight temperature control and two year aging in 25% new French oak, the rest 75% of the barriques being used up to the third passage. Tending to the vineyards as well as the vinification process are completely organic. No commercial yeasts, enzymes or activators are added and only minimum amount of sulphur is used. The wines are bottled unfiltered.

The vintage of 2010 was exceptional for Barolo. Optimal weather conditions allowed to produce wines with fine acid structure, plenty of fruit and complexity of aromas. Alberto Voerzio’s La Serra is a brilliant example of the high potential of this particular vintage.

Wine lover’s paradise in Tampere, Finland: Gastropub Tuulensuu

Gastropub Tuulensuu, Tampere, Finland.

When in Tampere, Finland, it’s a no brainer where I’m headed. There’s a magnetic pull between Gastropub Tuulensuu and the tips of my shoes. Amongst the several reasons to this is the brilliant, ever-changing wine list that Tuulensuu fosters. But it doesn’t stop there. Tuulensuu in best explained by being a Gesamtkunstwerk (Ger.), a complete art-work. Everything you would wish for in a wine bar is intertwined here: simple, cosy yet stylish interior, a relaxed atmosphere, wine (and beer and gastro) savvy staff, friendly service, a brilliant and vast selection of wine and beer and finally, a delicious belgian-french menu.  You can just drop by for a glass of your favourite red or enjoy an extensive dinner, whatever suits you the best.

All kinds of wine, beer and delicacy theme weeks abound in Tuulensuu. Stepping through their doors there’s invariably something special going on. Throughout the years I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying at least of the following: champagne and sparkling wine weeks, cheese weeks, Trappist beer weeks, schnitzel weeks, port wine weeks, sausage weeks, Riesling and Spätburgunder weeks, fondue weeks… The list goes on and on.

A very special week is the Tamperrada festival in August starting this year on the 15th. It is a tribute to Basque pintxo culture of enjoying mini-size delicacies with their beer and wine. In San Sebastian La Tamborrada fiesta is celebrating its 202nd year in 2015, and Tampere’s hugely popular delicious adaptation Tamperrada is now on for the third time. During this foodie heaven the top restaurants of Tampere, including Tuulensuu, make their contribution to a pintxo competition. The pintxos are on offer for a price of 2 EUR each, while cheerful foodies run around Tampere’s restaurants tasting them. Finally, people vote for their favourite pintxo and the winner restaurant conjuring the very best pintxo is announced. Personally, I have absolutely stuffed myself with pintxos during the two previous Tamperradas, and will make certain to do that again this year. Should you miss Tamperrada? No worries, dear wine lover. There’s always something wonderfully gastro and/or wine going on in Tuulensuu that you won’t want to miss.

In addition to Tuulensuu being awarded the best beer restaurant in Finland in 2014, it has an impressive wine list.. Since I lost my count facing the abundance, suffice it to say the wine list continues page after page. Along with the constantly changing wine list, Tuulensuu offers seasonal theme wines. For certain, there is always something new and exciting for a wine lover to sample. When I’m served wonderful food and a glass of quality red recommended by Jani, one of the wine pros at Tuulensuu, it is as good as it gets. In those circumstances I can concentrate on the essentials of life: just being there, enjoying my friend’s company and Tuulensuu’s great offerings.

Searching for the crème de la crème of wine bars, I require them to make me feel at home. These places are simultaneously effortless and professional – just like Tuulensuu. I warmly recommend this wine lover's paradise in Tampere.

These divine wines are recommended by Jani:

- P-U-R Beaujolais-Villages 2013, Beaujolais, Ranska

- Andrea Calek Chatons de Garde 2012, IGP Ardeche, Ranska

Coordinates:

Gastropub Tuulensuu, Hämeenpuisto 23, Tampere

+358-3-2141553
tuulensuu@gastropub.net

Chateau de Cayx 2010 Cahors, France

Chateau de Cayx 2010.

Wine review

3 of 5 stars

A good wine

Fitting for Cahors, this wine is almost black. The dark, deep ruby hue has a drop of purple in it. Scents of dark berries and fruits, plum, blackberries and black cherries are pronounced and fresh. Forming a more developed background to the fruit, there is plenty of spice, as well as some leather and farmyard aromas. Not entirely pleasant to my nose, a certain river-stone minerality with a hint of algae or moss character is perceptible. Finally, an elegant cigar smoke aroma is revealed following an hour in a decanter.

Having a full body and very powerful, concentrated acidity as well as medium tannins, this wine has plenty of aging potential. Dark plums and black berries dominate the aromatic palate. Nevertheless, the spice and smoke are evident as well, now intertwined with chocolate and liquorice nuances. Tannin quality is round and velvety already now in 2015. The spicy finish is medium length and pleasant. Although there is interesting aromatic complexity, an abundance of fruit and mostly pleasant tannin, the balance of this wine steers somewhat to the bitter and acidic side. Bottle age will integrate the structure further and show the potential of this still relatively young wine.

Aromatically complex and high in acid this wine would benefit from pairing with acidic foods as well as aromatic dark meat dishes, for example game or lamb with herbs. Decanting is good idea as there might be some deposit.

A good, concentrated, quality Malbec from Cahors.

Info in a nutshell

Price examples:

DKK 175 (EUR 24)  webshop vildmedvin.dk (ships also abroad)

DKK 170 wine shop Vinspecialisten, Copenhagen, Denmark

Country and region: Cahors, France

Grape: Malbec 100%

Alc vol: 14,5%

Producer: Chateau de Cayx

Background

Fascinatingly, Chateau de Cayx is owned by His Royal Highness Prince Henrik of Denmark.  Considering this and the fact that I’m an admirer of boldly structured wines, I could not resist this particular Cahors Malbec when I ran into it. The wine-merchant told me that HRH Prince Henrik has developed the chateau significantly during the recent years, aiming at excellent quality. A highly skilled enologist and winemaker has been brought in and the vineyards have been replanted.

Cahors is historically known for its black wine, or vin noir de Lot - Lot being synonymous for Malbec. Eventhough Cahors wines are not made by evaporating water from the Malbec juice anymore, and hence are not black, still a minimum of 70% of Malbec is required for Cahors AOC. Small percentages of Merlot and Tannat are often blended to Malbec to make these wines more approachable. They benefit from bottle age due to Malbec’s high tannin and acidity, and can be quite tight when opened too early. Chateau de Cayx 2010, however, is made of 100% Malbec.